Polly: In some ways, Napoli is the land time forgot. Boys still sport spiffing mullets and girls look like they are auditioning for an early Madonna music video. They seem unconcerned by environmental issues; people litter with gusto and use water like it falls out of the sky. But their popular culture is totally stuck in a time warp - pun intended. In the piazza on New Years Eve we bopped along to what i'm fairly certain were the 1972-85 Italian entries to the Eurovision Song Contest. They threw in a couple of their favorite English numbers too: YMCA and Gloria (unfortunately not the U2 version).
From what I could make out, their sitcoms rely heavily on slap stick and all have the sort of music that had me waiting for Benny Hill to run past. The game shows were equally 'foreign' to my western sensibilities. They all appeared to be filmed in wedding reception centres, and all the females were dressed in their underwear. It was a real treat though to get to watch 'That's Entertainment' with Liza Minelli dubbed into Italian by someone with smooth, mature tones.
From what I could make out, their sitcoms rely heavily on slap stick and all have the sort of music that had me waiting for Benny Hill to run past. The game shows were equally 'foreign' to my western sensibilities. They all appeared to be filmed in wedding reception centres, and all the females were dressed in their underwear. It was a real treat though to get to watch 'That's Entertainment' with Liza Minelli dubbed into Italian by someone with smooth, mature tones.
Tim: The day after New Years had us being very tentative. I went out at dawn and took a lot of post-party Naples photos (since we didn't take our camera out with us to the party). The city was still thick with smoke - visibility was down to about 300m - and knee deep in rubbish but there were plenty of people around on their way to work or cleaning up. Although Polly was much refreshed by her sleep, we didn't want to spend the whole day hiding out in our room, so I was trying to think of something that would take us to where the air was clear but so little was going to be open on this public holiday. My thoughts were to get away to either Sorrento or to the Amalfi Coast but there was no transport for our return (things more or less closed just after lunch and stayed shut). In desperation, I thought that going down to the seafront would be the best place for clean air, but 'the seafront' was actually 'the docks' and the air was just as murky and orange there. So now what? We stopped breifly at a church with a magnificent golden roof, then walked back to our rooms via the market streets (where Polly bought a bag of fried rice balls, polenta and other veges). Fortunately, some rain cleared the air a bit, making it easier for her. Back at our room, we again had a unconscionably long nap and a nice meal at a place recommended by the hotel, where I was talked into a fantastic grilled fish.
The following morning we were up and away just after 7am. Yep, people were still letting off fireworks but it was much more desultory now. I mean, guys, why would you still have any left more than a day later?
We had a plan for the day - an ambitious one - and almost pulled it off. Here's what happened. Firstly, we deposited our bags for the day (with an eas that was very September 10th) bought sleeper tickets for the night train to Sicily, then all-day tickets for the greater Naples area. Right; 14 hours to fill. First thing was taking a bus down along Corso Umberto I, scene of our amazing/scary/unique experience of 2 days ago. Now, instead of roller doors and empty footpaths there were chic shops, shoppers and lots of life everywhere. We then took in an amazing arcade with a vaulted glass ceiling (where I bought a battery charger to replace the one that betrayed me and stopped working. It is beneath me to speak further of its perfidy), then took a nearby funicolare to the heights of Naples. Sadly, time was short and the air hazy so no good panoramas over the city.
Back in the city, we walked down to the waterfront and booked a hydrofoil to the island of Capri. We were boarded and seated when the captain announced that the sea was too rough and there would be no more boats today. We shrugged and got our money back - Polly was secretly relieved; she was getting seasick tied up at the docks...
We had made our plans with lots of flexibility, so we hopped on a bus back to the centre, grabbed some lunch from the street markets and took a train to Sorrento. The weather on the way was not good; hail and us on the way to a seaside resort.
Polly: Sorrento was asleep and cold when we arrived, but when the shop-owners emerged after siesta (and the rain stopped) the narrow streets and lanes were alive with inviting tourist shops, places to eat and people having a good time. It was yet another Italy for us to enjoy, a cleaner, more welcoming place of higher prices.
Polly:And amazing gorgeousness. I couldn't stop smiling like a loon at the beauty of those narrow streets. Even the gales blowing down the alleys that faced the wrong way were 'just part of the adventure'. (this has become my catch phrase for anything that doesn't quite go to plan - only said through clenched teeth once so far!)
Tim: ...and we got the train back to Naples, then hopped onto our night train to Sicily. A huge day where we did so much!
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